“There be gold in ‘dem hills!” - South Pass City

High in the Wind River Mountains, where the sagebrush gives way to subalpine meadows and the air carries the permanent scent of pine and old wood, sits South Pass City. Today, it is one of the most meticulously preserved ghost towns in the American West, but in the late 1860s, it was the roaring, muddy, and ambitious "Gold Capital" of the Wyoming Territory.

Its history is a cocktail of frontier optimism, industrial grit, and a world-changing political revolution that earned Wyoming its nickname: "The Equality State."

The Spark of the Rush (1867)

The history of South Pass City begins not with gold, but with the passage of thousands of emigrants. For decades, the South Pass - a broad, gentle gap in the Continental Divide - was the gateway for the Oregon, Mormon, and California Trails. While the pioneers were focused on the horizon, few realized they were walking over a fortune.

In 1867, a group of prospectors discovered a rich vein of gold-bearing quartz along Willow Creek. They named it the Carissa Lode, likely after a sweetheart or relative of one of the miners. Unlike the "placer" gold found in California streams (which could be panned out of the water), this gold was locked in hard rock. It required heavy machinery, shafts, and stamps to extract.

The news of the Carissa strike spread like wildfire. Despite the constant threat of conflict with local Shoshone and Arapaho tribes and the brutal isolation of the high mountains, thousands of men and women surged into the Sweetwater Mining District. By 1868, South Pass City was the county seat of Carter County (now Fremont County) and boasted a population of nearly 3,000 people.

Architecture of Ambition

In its prime, South Pass City was a mile-long stretch of chaos. It was not a planned city; it was an organic eruption of wood and stone. Main Street was lined with over 300 buildings, including:

• The Houghton-Colter General Store: Where a pound of flour could cost more than a day’s wages during a blizzard.
• The Sherlock Hotel: A hub for weary travelers and investors.
• Half-a-dozen Saloons: Places like the "Cave" or "The Gretna Green" where gold dust was the primary currency and disputes were often settled with Leadville law.

Life was hard. At nearly 8,000 feet in elevation, winter arrives in October and doesn't leave until June. Miners lived in "dugouts,” small cabins built partially into the hillsides for insulation. Yet, despite the harshness, there was a sense of permanence. Families arrived, schools were built, and for a brief window, South Pass City was the economic rival of The Magic City of the Plains: Cheyenne.

The (possible) Tea Party that Changed the World

While South Pass City was built on gold, its true legacy is Woman Suffrage. The story of how Wyoming became the first place in the world to grant women the permanent right to vote and hold office is inextricably linked to two residents of South Pass City: Esther Hobart Morris and William Bright.

The "Suffrage" Tea Party

The most enduring (though historically debated) story involves a tea party held in Esther Morris's humble log cabin in the fall of 1869. Morris was a tall, formidable woman who had moved to South Pass to join her husband and sons in the mining business.

At this tea party, she reportedly hosted William Bright, a saloon owner and newly elected member of the first Wyoming Territorial Legislature. Bright was a Democrat and a veteran of the Civil War. Morris, a staunch abolitionist and suffragist, supposedly looked Bright in the eye and asked him to introduce a bill for woman suffrage once he got to Cheyenne.

Whether it was Morris's persuasive tea or Bright’s own political calculations (some say he wanted to attract more women to the male-dominated territory), the fact remains: William Bright introduced the bill, and on December 10, 1869, Territorial Governor John A. Campbell signed it into law.

The First Female Judge

The revolution didn't stop there. In 1870, the South Pass City justice of the peace resigned in protest of the new law. Esther Hobart Morris was appointed to take his place, becoming the first female judge in the United States. Morris tried 27 cases during her tenure, and while some of the local miners initially scoffed at the "lady judge," she was known for her no-nonsense approach and legal fairness. Not one of her decisions was ever overturned by a higher court.

The "Sweetwater" Trio

South Pass City was not alone. It was the metropolis of a trio of camps. Just a few miles to the east was Atlantic City, and further up the draw was Hamilton City (more commonly known as Miner’s Delight).

The mining in these towns was interconnected. When the Carissa Mine was producing, South Pass City thrived. When the "Frenchman’s Mine" at Miner’s Delight struck a rich pocket, the saloons in South Pass saw the overflow. This regional cooperation (and competition) defined the Sweetwater District. As mentioned in The Wyoming Historian (Vol. I, Iss. I, Feb.2026), entrepreneurs like Simon Bamberger, who would later build the Piedmont Kilns, got their start navigating the volatile markets of these very camps, moving between South Pass and the railroad hubs as the fortunes of the gold mines fluctuated.

The Long Sleep (1872–1950s)

The problem with hard-rock gold mining is the "pinching out" of veins. By 1872, the easy gold near the surface had been taken. The Carissa Mine required deeper shafts and more expensive technology. At the same time, the national economy took a hit, and investors grew wary.

The population began to hemorrhage. The county seat was moved to Lander in 1884. South Pass City didn't disappear entirely, it transitioned.  A few families stayed on to work small-scale "placer" operations or to provide services to the growing sheep and cattle ranches in the surrounding valleys.

The Sherlock family became the town’s primary stewards. They ran the hotel, the store, and the post office for nearly a century. Because the town was so isolated and the families so protective, the buildings were never torn down or replaced by modern brick structures. South Pass City simply... stayed. It became a time capsule of the 1870s, preserved by the dry Wyoming air and the dedication of the few who called it home.

Restoration: The State Historic Site

In the 1960s, recognizing the incredible historical value of the site, the State of Wyoming purchased the core of South Pass City. It became a State Historic Site and was later added to the National Register of Historic Places.

The restoration was meticulous. Unlike "Wild West" theme parks, South Pass City is authentic. The wallpaper in the Sherlock Hotel is based on original fragments. The tools in the Smithy are period-correct. The Carissa Mine and Mill, which stands on the hill overlooking the town, was restored in the 2000s, allowing visitors to see the massive stamp mills that once crushed the spirit out of the mountain to get to the gold.

Visiting Today

For travelers traversing Wyoming today, South Pass City is far from a "dead" ghost town; it is a vibrant, living history experience that offers a rare bridge between the 19th and 21st centuries. The site is designed to engage visitors of all ages and interest levels through hands-on discovery. Children can experience the pulse-pounding excitement of the 1860s by panning for gold in the actual waters of Willow Creek, where the thrill of finding a shimmering flake of "color" remains just as potent as it was during the Carissa strike. For the industrial and mechanical enthusiast, the guided tours of the Carissa Mine and Mill provide a deep dive into the massive, clanking machinery that powered the Gilded Age. Meanwhile, those interested in social history can stand in the very room where the first female judge in the U.S. presided, or wander through the perfectly preserved Sherlock Hotel to imagine the rigors of frontier hospitality. Even nature lovers find a home here, as the site offers scenic hiking trails that connect to the legendary Continental Divide Trail, providing breathtaking views of the Wind River foothills. From sipping a cold sarsaparilla at the general store to exploring the high-desert landscape, South Pass City ensures that every member of the family finds a personal connection to the Wyoming frontier.

For the latest information on seasonal events: such as the annual Gold Rush Days, vintage "base ball" games, or winter trekking schedules. Be sure to visit the South Pass City Facebook Page for the latest information.

The Ghost of the Sherlock Hotel

A popular story among modern-day site interpreters involves the "spirit of hospitality" in South Pass. It is said that in the late 19th century, a miner who had lost everything in a cave-in arrived at the Sherlock Hotel. Mrs. Sherlock, knowing he couldn't pay, reportedly sat him down for a full meal and told him, "In this town, we may run out of gold, but we never run out of grace."

This anecdote highlights the community bond that allowed South Pass City to survive long after its economic reason for being had vanished. It wasn't just a place to get rich; it was a place where people built lives against the odds.

Bibliography

• Massie, Michael A. South Pass City: Wyoming’s Early Gold Camp. Wyoming State Press, 1991.
• Larson, T.A. History of Wyoming. University of Nebraska Press, 1978. (See chapters on the 1869 Suffrage Act).
• Homsher, Lola. South Pass, 1868: James Chisholm's Journal of the Wyoming Gold Rush. University of Nebraska Press, 1960. (A first-hand primary account of life in the camp).
• National Register of Historic Places. Nomination Form: South Pass City Historic District. U.S. Department of the Interior, 1970.